IGGY Essentials
Italian Greyhound
Handbook
Written/Compiled by K.S. Thompson
Author of the Min Pin Handbook
Thank you for your interest in these fantastic little dogs!
I would love to hear your feedback on this booklet and will try to answer
any questions you may have.
The information is copyright protected and applies to what I wrote and what was provided to me from various sources. I obtained permission from the authors of all info I did not personally write. By accepting a copy for your personal use, you agree not to duplicate the information or alter it in any way. The information in the Handbook is based on my personal experiences and any statements made are my own opinion which is, again, based on over a decade of careful research. This Handbook is provided – free of charge – to anyone interested in learning more about Italian Greyhounds as a courtesy to the breed and to those who came before me, that I might have the privilege of being a part of it all.
DO YOU REALLY WANT AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND ?
( adapted from the German Pinscher Club of
If you lack patience and calm temperament....are unable to say "NO" and mean it....have no interest in even the most basic training....
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If your lifestyle is such that you have little time to do more than feed and let the dog out, if you only go home to sleep, if your social life is more important than socializing your dog...
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you feel that a dog should be able to tolerate much physical and emotional abuse, or if you feel that a dog does not need supervision and "should just know better"......
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If the only way you know how to communicate is by screaming,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you think that taking your dog to the bar is appropriate,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you want an Italian Greyhound because you saw one in a movie but haven’t done any research about the breed and aren’t really interested in doing so,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you feel you can pick up a puppy and bring it home fully trained and are not willing to work with your puppy to teach it manners or housetraining,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND DEFINITELY ISN’T FOR YOU!
If the occasional mess in the house is something you cannot live with,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If affection from your dog would embarrass you and if displaying affection for your dog isn’t something you are willing to do,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If putting a coat or sweater on your dog would embarrass you, if you wouldn’t be caught shopping for doggie outfits or if you feel that a dog doesn’t need clothes,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you have an aversion to a dog sticking his face up to yours to smell your eyes or stick his nose in your ear to warm it up a bit or crawl under the covers with you,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you want your dog to amuse itself, have no intention of getting a few toys or taking the odd trip to the park or the backyard with your new companion,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you don’t want your dog on the furniture,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If having the dog follow you everywhere, including into the bathroom would annoy you to no end,
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you do not believe in crates, ex-pens, leashes or a fenced yard, don’t even think about an Italian Greyhound because
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS NOT FOR YOU!
If you feel that backyard breeding is your key to financial freedom and security - or if you just want to breed to keep a puppy....
AN ITALIAN GREYHOUND IS DEFINITELY NOT FOR YOU!
Any reputable breeder will tell you that money is the LAST reason to buy a puppy. The unfortunate truth is that countless puppies are the casualties of greed, ignorance and exploitation. In 2004 alone, the IGCA Rescue Team was able to help 600 dogs find the homes they deserve.
Having read all that, if you’re still interested in learning more about IGs, please read on. If not, then it’s just as well you learned that an IG was not for you BEFORE you brought one home.
Let’s Play 20 Questions!
Where do they come from?
Italian Greyhounds are thought to have originated over two centuries ago in the areas that are now known as
The first IG registered with the AKC ( American Kennel Club ) was in 1886. The IGCA ( Italian Greyhound Club of America ) was not founded until almost 100 years later, in 1954. The first Best In Show awarded to an IG was in 1963 and many others have followed since.
Your dog is really skinny! Don’t you ever feed him?
This is a comment often heard by those accompanied by a Sighthound. The Sighthound family includes : Afghan Hound, Basenji, Borzoi ( or Russian Wolfhound ), Greyhound, Ibizan Hound, Irish Wolfhound, Pharoh Hound, Saluki, Scottish Deerhound and Whippet. The best way to describe an IG with regard to physical characteristics is that they look like a Greyhound or Whippet in miniature. The Greyhound is the largest, Whippet is medium-sized and the IG is the smallest of the three and also the smallest of the Sighthounds.
The Hound Group is split into two sub-groups. Sighthounds and Scent Hounds. Sighthounds are also known as Gazehounds because they hunt by sight ( or gaze ) rather than by scent. Beagles and Bloodhounds are among members of the Scent Hounds.
Their lean, muscular body is the most dramatic of their physical characteristics and the most often commented on by the general public. Because they hunt by sight and at high speeds, they have very little body fat. This lends itself to the “skinny dog” look that people either seem to find very appealing or very alarming. This is also why it is SO IMPORTANT to take great care with your IG. Extreme heat or cold can harm any dog but it will happen more quickly to a dog with such low body fat.
Yes, we feed our IGs. No, they are not starving for food or affection, although their behavior would often lead one to assume otherwise. They are very food motivated, which again leads back to their hunting instinct. One cannot breed out what Mother Nature put in. This trait is not something most Sighthound owners want to eliminate, as it makes them very good at Agility, Flyball, Scent Hurdle, Lure Coursing and Straight Racing.
Is there an Italian Greyhound Club?
There is an IG club in almost every state in the
What do Italian Greyhounds look like?
As stated earlier, the IG is very similar in appearance to both the Greyhound and the
Whippet but much smaller. The IG should have a balanced look with adequate muscle
tone. The average weight is 10 pounds but can range anywhere from 7 to 15 pounds.
What colors are there?
According to the IGCA, “The coat may be all shades of fawn, cream, red, blue, or sometimes black, and it may be either solid or with various degrees of white markings. The coat is fine, smooth and glossy.” With regard to the names of the various colors and markings, it proved to be a challenge to get the same answer two different people. The interpretation of various colors and markings will vary from breeder to breeder based on both their experience and also what is allowed to be registered. For example, the color “seal” is allowed in the
Should I get a male or a female?
This is one question that many people often ask. Perhaps you knew exactly what you were looking for long before you received this booklet. I always tell those looking for a puppy -- especially if they have a particular color in mind -- to “build your house before you paint it”. Find a reputable breeder that you are comfortable talking to...arrange to meet their IGs...ask about their sales contract, health guarantee, puppy take-back clause and pedigrees -- if you put everything together and like what you come up with, you’re set.
Breeders cannot predict what will appear in future litters, so no one can give you a definite answer about whether or not they will have something for you. With regard to getting a female, those who are trying to continue a strong breeding program may not have any bitches available to pet homes. Other breeders are usually at the top of their waiting list for puppies, as well.
All puppies that are sold as pets/companions( ie : not going to be shown ) should be spayed/neutered prior to placement or sold on strict non-breeding agreements. This decision is entirely up to the breeder and practices vary among individuals. If you are looking for a pet, I can say for certain that once your IG is “fixed” -- sex will not matter whatsoever. All behaviors associated with sexual drive will be non-existent. There are many differences in personalities from IG to IG and none of those differences are related to their sex. I have also found that if the parents have solid temperaments, the puppies will also -- again the sex being of no consequence. Temperament also differs from line to line. Another reason to visit the breeder, get to know their dogs, ask what THEY look for with regard to temperament and learn what it is that you are looking for before you make any decision about where you would, ideally, like to get your IG.
When I bred Min Pins, I carefully screened prospective homes and evaluated each puppy with aptitude testing, matching each family to a puppy that would best fit into their lifestyle. A responsible, reputable breeder will not sell you a puppy that would not fit in with your family or your activity level. If you are an active person who wants to take your IG with you everywhere, a puppy that is happier sleeping on the couch is NOT the one for you. Here’s another example. If you are a home-body who just wants someone to cuddle and watch movies with, I would not recommend a high-energy puppy that enjoys a 2 hour walk every day. Hence, sex is not the issue here, but individual temperament and activity level.
How do they act?
IGs are affectionate and loyal companions. They like to be WITH you. If you are sitting on the floor, they will sit with you. If you are wandering around the house, they will follow. If you need to visit the restroom, they usually want to go with you ( unless there’s something else more exciting going on ). They like to play with you, they like to see what you’re up to, they like to be a part of your life and what you’re doing.
IGs like to cuddle, they like to play, they like to be spoken to and included in your day-to-day activities. They like to look you in the eye, sniff you in the eye and then clean your eye. They have a pretty good sense of humor and are happy to be the center of attention.
IGs are active but not normally hyper. IG puppies are little daredevils who enjoy launching themselves off the floor, furniture and your lap. They are determined to shatter your nerves on a daily basis by performing feats of insanity with little or no concern for their own safety. My best advice is to keep access to the stairs restricted or they will decide it would be faster ( and much more exciting ) to leap to the next floor rather than traverse these silly little levels one by one. This can lead to injuries, fractures and death.
Are they good with kids?
Yes and No. If the IG is raised around children who treat them in a gentle way, they will adore children. If children are not taught responsible dog ownership...if they are allowed to grab, hit, scream at or treat them roughly in any way, an IG will learn to fear children. It is important to realize that even as a full grown adult, the IG is a small dog. The wrong type of play and handling can easily result in broken bones -- possibly worse. Always let the IG approach the child, NOT the other way around and you'll have a wonderful companion. Patience, love and common sense make a great recipe for raising an IG with children...or adults.
They get along well with children, provided that they are treated with care and respect. Children prone to screaming or who cannot follow rules such as not picking the puppy up should not be paired with any toy breed, in my opinion. A small dog such as an IG can safely navigate from couch to chair to table to floor but can be seriously injured when dropped from as little as 2 feet.
Personally, I do not recommend toy breeds for anyone whose children are under the age of 12. I have encountered many breeders, clubs and rescue groups who agree with this and others who do not. This is based on my experience and the amount of research I have done. I would never say “never” because each potential home deserves to be evaluated on an individual basis.
IGs are not “nippy” little dogs, which does bode well in their favor when it comes to mixing them with children.
Are they good obedience dogs?
Heavens YES! With a knowledgeable and persistent trainer, IGs can excel in obedience, flyball, agility, scent hurdle racing, lure coursing and straight racing. I encourage all owners to try at least one sport that is of interest to you with the dog. It not only helps you bond but provides socialization for both of you, in addition to quality time spent together that is worth more than any amount of money or ribbons.
What are they like to live with?
They are sweet, affectionate and ever-present. They enjoy interaction with people and like to cuddle. They are not a “yappy” dog – Ari was with me for over a week before I heard him bark for the first time. Much like my Whippet, he only barks when he wants something in particular or when he’s playing. He’s not prone to barking in the yard or barking at people passing by the house.
What sort of stuff should I buy if I decide to get one?
Crate
The very best crate on the market is the Deluxe VariKennel. I recommend the medium 300. Ari matured out at 15.5 inches tall, so he needs the extra space. Speak to whomever you’re getting your IG from and ask what size kennel their dogs use. The Deluxe VariKennel is the most durable......and the most fashionable! It also has the bonus of an excellent door latch and no screws to fall out. The only drawback is the price. Everyone I talk to about crates -- especially those with larger breeds -- would love nothing more than a Deluxe VariKennel for each of their dogs, but simply cannot afford it.
Here's a less expensive alternative : Kennel Cab ( Medium or Large, depending on the size of your IG ). With a price tag of about 50 dollars a Medium Kennel Cab is a good investment.
Bedding
You will need something for your puppy to lie on and something to snuggle up in while he's in his crate. If you're handy with a sewing machine -- it's less expensive and more fun to make your own. Just measure the floor of the crate and make a "mattress" thick enough so he's comfortable. This is especially important for IGs because they have very little body fat and can bruise easily if they are lying on something hard. I crochet blankies for all my kids -- a 2.5 x 2.5 foot granny square does the trick. I use these with caution as their little legs can get caught. No matter what you decide to use, I recommend at least 2 sets of bedding in case of accidents and on laundry day.
If you'd rather not make it yourself, crate pads are available at dog shows and pet supply stores ( shop around for the best price ). Receiving blankets are a good investment, too. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter.
COST? Depends on what you want to spend. The puppy won't care if everything matches or if you bought the very best yarn or if it's the latest design. He just wants a warm, soft bed.
Flexi Lead
Some people warn against using Flexi with Sighthounds because they can reach high speeds in a very short period of time. Running at that speed and then suddenly being yanked off your feet when you reach the end of the leash can prove deadly. I don’t think this is as much of an issue with an IG but it’s worth consideration. I don’t find I need a longer leash because Ari sticks quite close to me and will come back immediately if the leash tightens up. I use a 4 foot leash with him and it works fine.
There are a lot of imitation extended leads on the market, but the ONLY one I recommend is the Flexi Brand. The cheaper versions are just that -- CHEAP. They have a tendency to jam or break and the locks are far from reliable. These malfunctions never occur when the lead is hanging by the door, but rather when your dog is trying to run after a squirrel !!
The Flexi 2-5 is the size I recommend for small breeds like the IG. They come in a variety of colors and cost around 30 dollars. Once again, the extra money spent is worth the peace of mind -- you will know that the lead will not tangle, jam or break with
Collar
I don't recommend the use of a buckle collar, as they are difficult to put on in a hurry and damage easily. You also need to ensure that you use a collar recommended for Sighthounds. Their necks and the back of their skull is usually about the same size, which means that a regular collar will simply slip off if they back out of it.
I discovered the Mes Amis collars at a dog show. They cost under 15 dollars and the reason I like them so much is they are guaranteed not to break hair or cause a “rub line” around the neck. They come in almost every color of the rainbow. Size? Extra Small, 1/2 inch wide, adjusts from 8-14 inches around the neck. You can get them from Needs N Desires – www.needsndesires.com You’ll want the “martingale” style collar, not the buckle one. They also make leashes out of the same material which is like silk in your hands. Very nice.
I also like the one-piece martingale lead from Northwind Design. www.northwindcatalog.com The Martingale collar/leash combo is highly recommended for IGs because they cannot back out of it.
I also recommend Suni Petware. They specialize in items made for Sighthounds and can be found here http://www.sunipetware.com/ Sue and Nina are a HUGE supporter of Sighthound Rescue and I believe in supporting those who support Rescue.
You can also find IG gear at IGCA website, many of the vendors listed also support rescue.
Dishes
Your puppy needs something to eat and drink out of. Stainless steel dishes are the only kind I use. Plastic dishes can trap bacteria and germs -- they also dull the skin and coat color, so that can't be good for puppy. You need a larger bowl for water -- this must be kept out at all times, get one that won't tip over easily. Stainless steel water buckets can be found at most dog shows and some pet supply stores. I have also found really nice glass bowls at various stores that are quite fashionable and easy to clean. Get a food bowl large enough to hold 2 cups of food, even though your puppy may not eat that much at one time. They seem to like a larger bowl than is needed.
Find a spot ( preferably in the kitchen ) for the water dish. Choose a corner where the puppy will have easy access without the fear of being tripped over or stepped on. You may even want to purchase a placemat to keep it on.
Food IS NOT kept out all day. Obesity will KILL your IG. They are not picky eaters by nature, but can easily be taught this annoying habit by a parent unwilling to set some simple rules. IGs DO NOT need to have an endless supply of food. You need to monitor how much they are eating -- this way you can prevent future health problems and possibly spot a problem much earlier. If your IG doesn't want to eat, he has either already had his fill for the day, which you should know about and is probably more than enough. OR he is sick and should be examined by a vet. If your dog refuses to eat something that they are normally eating without issue, the FOOD itself may have gone bad – something else to consider. NEVER FORCE A DOG TO EAT. If they are having issues, speak to a vet. If the food is bad, they will accept something else.
Baby Gate
This comes in very handy when dealing with IGs. You have to have some sort of physical barrier in order to set boundaries in your home. You must also have some way to prevent your IG from running out the front door. I have two "Elfe" brand baby gates, available at most department stores for about 30 dollars. Scout the garage sales, you may be able to pick up a good quality gate for a lot less! The wooden expandable ones DO NOT WORK !! The holes are too big and the IG will crawl through or worse, get their legs caught injure themselves. Remember, if you can fit your hand through, your IG won't have trouble getting through.
Grooming Supplies
An IGs grooming needs are minimal, but not non-existent. You will need a pair of nail clippers and a small bottle of "Quick Stop". No matter how careful you are or how often you trim the nails, each dog usually has at least one that ALWAYS bleeds. The Quick Stop will do just that. Stop it quickly. If you trim the nails faithfully, the bleeding will be minimal or non-existent. Trimming nails should not be a big production number or a dreaded chore.
A small toothbrush and canine toothpaste. Any small breed needs to accept dental care to be a normal, everyday event. You will have to take puppy in to have his teeth checked by the vet a couple times a year and possibly cleaned by the vet at least once a year -- if the job is minimal, your bill should only be 80 to 100 dollars. If you don't look after their teeth, you will look after a vet bill in excess of a few hundred dollars!!! ( I am speaking from personal experience ) Finances aside, a dirty mouth is unpleasant, uncomfortable and unhealthy. My dogs eat raw chicken necks, feet and wings on a regular basis – nature’s toothbrush!
These are the basic supplies. The cost is such that you shouldn't expect the breeder or rescue group to provide all of them for you. Don't worry about buying food until you talk to the breeder or rescue group about what the IG is already eating. Of course, there are endless supplies of toys and the like -- shop around and before you know it, puppy will have many wonderful things to play with and enjoy.
What should I feed my IG?
This topic is the center of debate on many an IG list. Some people strongly recommend this brand or that brand. Some are very passionate about feeding a holistic diet, others rail against it. The following is what I feed and recommend, based on many years of researching canine health and nutrition, along with the many options now available.
I shop at Tail Blazers in
At the time of this writing, I feed a combination of Innova Evo and Tripette canned tripe. The tripe is stinky and gross but the dogs LOVE it. There are many reasons why I feed a more natural, holistic diet to my dogs – the main reason is that I have seen the results. I recently added Timberwolf Organics “Ocean Blue” formula, mixing it with the Innova Evo. If the dogs continue to do well, I will switch over to it because not only does it seem to be of slightly higher quality, it smells better and is designed to be mixed with raw.
My dogs usually get a raw chicken neck, back, wing or feet in the morning as a snack. Sometimes TailBlazers is out of raw chicken and so they have to wait a few days until I can get more. Raw meat needs to be handled with care to avoid spreading things like salmonella to other members of the household. The chicken bones, when served raw, are very soft and spongy. This leads to a lot of good chewing and scraping of buildup off the teeth. They enjoy it tremendously.
DO NOT FEED COOKED CHICKEN BONES TO YOUR DOG!
When you cook chicken, the moisture is drawn out of the bones, making them brittle. They no longer hold any nutritional value at all and are very, very, very dangerous.
I recommend the book “Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats” by Kymythy Schultz. It can be purchased at Tail Blazers stores and also ordered at most bookstores. It goes into detail about feeding raw and I learned a great deal from it. While I don’t follow it to the letter, I do feel it’s one of the best books available on the topic.
Please visit this website www.onlynatural.info This site is maintained by an IG breeder who believes in natural rearing of her Sighthounds and a holistic diet for herself. She has a ton of GREYT info and some excellent resources for you.
Please also visit http://www.holistic-hounds.com/ and
http://www.lepus-sighthounds.com/natural-rearing.htm both of these sites are maintained by IG-savvy people who have extensive experience with this method of feeding.
There are links from each of the sites to other sites of interest on the topic of natural rearing. I urge you to take in as much of the information as possible.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO DO AS MUCH RESEARCH AS POSSIBLE ABOUT DIET TO ENSURE THAT YOU ARE FEEDING A BALANCED, NUTRITIONAL MEAL TO YOUR DOGS.
Please do not embark on your own “version” of a natural diet without help from an expert or six who have been doing it for a while and understand all aspects of this option.
With regard to how much you need to feed them, again the person you aquire your IG from is the best person to ask. Ari eats a cup of kibble with a tablespoon of tripe once per day in the evening. I soak the food in hot water for 3-5 minutes to prevent the dogs from aspirating the dry kibble. When they’re available, he also gets one piece of raw chicken in the morning ( usually neck or feet ).
How much they eat also depends upon WHAT they are eating. If I was using a kibble full of corn, grains and other fillers Ari would need to eat as much as DOUBLE what I am currently feeding. He would also have more waste because fillers are not useful to the body.
WALK YOUR IG !
If you think that your IG will get sufficient exercise while "running around the backyard" you'll be disappointed. I am not saying that they won't run around at all or that playing in the fresh air is not beneficial. I think EVERY puppy deserves a big back yard of their very own. Unfortunately, your IG will eventually pick a sunny spot and lay down. So, an hour in the backyard does not equal an hour of good exercise.
You have a very fashionable collar and leash -- PUT IT ON YOUR IG and head out for adventure! It gets you out of the house, helps you bond and you'll be amazed at how many people stop to admire your beautiful puppy.
NEVER, EVER -- UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ALLOW YOUR IG TO ROAM OFF LEASH!
I don’t care how well-trained you THINK your IG is. Eventually, your puppy will encounter a larger, aggressive animal or a moving vehicle.
The key is to start slow and gradually work your way into a routine you both enjoy. I also recommend walking around your area alone first. Then you can choose a route where it will be SAFE. If someone in your neighborhood insists on letting their 'Gigantasoar' run loose and jump on everyone, take your puppy to a park or on a hiking trail. Keep your eyes and ears peeled -- not only for other dogs and cats, but skunks, badgers, coyotes, moose and the like! I know you're laughing now, but it's been known to happen -- especially in
What about an off leash park ?
ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! The fastest of Sighthounds can reach speeds of over 40 miles an hour ( 60 km/hr ) and this is the main reason that they cannot be trusted off-leash. Many people use off leash parks and only a small percentage of their dogs are actually trained. Not only are a great number of dogs who visit these parks ill-mannered, but most have poor temperaments and cannot be trusted around strangers or other dogs. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, VISIT AN OFF
Having said that, there are many IG-related events that take place in secure, fenced areas where other dogs are not in attendance.
What about breeding IGs?
THE ONLY VALID REASON FOR BREEDING IS TO IMPROVE THE BREED!!!
For this to be accomplished, it is necessary to have a thorough knowledge of the Breed and the Approved Breed Standard. This must be followed by careful research and study of the ancestry of the bitch and the stud dog. Personal knowledge of both animals is preferred, as BREEDING ANY ANIMAL WITH POOR TEMPERAMENT -- regardless of the number of ribbons and titles -- IS ABSOLUTELY IRRESPONSIBLE!!
NEVER BREED WITH THE INTENTION
OF EARNING MONEY!!
Breeding quality IGs ( or any other breed, for that matter ) is a labor of love and an expensive one. Ask any REPUTABLE breeder and they will verify that. Are you devoted to the IG as a breed and desire to spend the amount of time and money required in order to breed for quality only? Then start your research by talking to other established IG breeders for more detailed information and advice on choosing the right stud dog for your bitch or vice-versa. Many people have asked me if I intend to breed IGs. I cannot answer that because I do not know if I will acquire an IG that will pass all health screening and have what I feel it takes to contribute to the breed. At the time of this writing, my focus is Rescue and doing activities with Ari, who is going to be neutered shortly and will not be part of any breeding program.
BREEDING IS SOMETHING TO BE TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY!!
Please do what you can to read everything available to you ( getting this booklet has already put you on the right track! ) and talk to as many REPUTABLE breeders as possible ( IG or otherwise ) before you even think of breeding.
NO PET, regardless of pedigree, should be bred for any reason. In 2004, OVER 600 IGS NEEDED HELP VIA IGCA RESCUE!! IGs are not an endangered species. IG Rescue has reached EPIDEMIC PROPORTIONS and we need to work together to STOP the excessive number of dogs needing our help each and every month, year after agonizing year.
Responsible Breeders are doing all they can to keep IGs healthy and sound. Those who do not understand what they are doing when they breed their pet quality IG with the neighbor’s pet store IG and have done no health testing, have no understanding of pedigrees ( no pedigree to refer to ), no registration, no working knowledge of the breed standard, no knowledge of how to properly screen homes, no sales contract, no puppy take-back clause or spay/neuter agreement and no care for the consequences are only contributing to a problem we are trying so desperately to solve. Those who work in Rescue will continue to care for the offspring of Puppy Mills and Backyard Breeders because those people obviously do not.
Those who breed MUST do so responsibly. If you Breed, help with Rescue Efforts. If you don’t help those already here, regardless of quality or pedigree, you have NO BUSINESS contributing to the population. If you do not take the time and effort to educate those who purchase puppies from you and do not enforce strict spay/neuter agreements, YOU are part of the problem. I did not pull my ethics out of the air. I did not obtain my knowledge from one seminar, one book, one person. I was taught how to become a Responsible Breeder and a Responsible Owner with the guidance of many Responsible Breeders, Rescue Volunteers and Owners. I went to many seminars, read many books, spoke to many, many, many people BEFORE I brought my first IG home. I spent over 15 years learning everything I could so that I could be part of the solution, not part of the problem. Within 10 months of bringing Ari home, I Fostered two IGs and helped them find the homes they deserved. One of them was purchased in a pet store, the other came from a BYB. That is why I feel justified in my opinions, my ethics, my policies and my screening process.
Where can I get an IG?
There are many options. Here is what I recommend. Visit the IGCA website and the IG Club of
How do I know if I really want one?
Research, research, research, research, research, research – get the picture? Read as much as you can about them. Visit as many websites as you can find. Talk to as many IG folks as you can. Ask questions. Compare notes. If you do all that and still want more, you’re probably hooked. My best advice is “When in doubt, DON’T”. Just wait and do more research. If you discover that you still want a dog but perhaps not an IG, make a list of the things you liked about IGs and the things you didn’t like. This will help you find a dog that is more suited to your lifestyle and your personality.
Attend as many CKC and / or AKC dog shows as possible and after the judging is over, spend time talking with the Breeders and Exhibitors. If they seem busy, most will have a business card handy and you can contact them at a time when it's convenient for both of you. IG Rescue usually has Meet N Greet events scheduled throughout the year at pet expos, dog shows, pet supply stores and the like. You are always welcome to attend and encouraged to ask many questions. You would then have the opportunity to meet some IGs, get some cuddles and see for yourself if this is the breed for you.
The purchase of a life-long companion is a major expense, not only financially but also emotionally. Spend a few dollars to buy some, if not all of the books listed as recommended reading at the end of this section. Above all else, talk this over seriously with anyone and everyone else involved with your new dog.
Are there any websites I can visit?
Italian Greyhound Club of America ( IGCA ) can be found here
http://www.italiangreyhound.org/
Italian Greyhound Club of Canada can be found here
http://www.geocities.com/itgrcc/index.html
IG Times Magazine http://www.igtimes.com/
IG Video, courtesy of the American Kennel Club
http://www.akc.org/videos/breeds/italian_greyhound.swf
Iggy Planet – a totally Iggy place to be!
Diavolino IGs –
http://www.geocities.com/diavig/
Pasta Greyhound – an awesome IG site with a lot of pics and info
Everafter IG's - www.everafterkennels.com
http://www.italiangreyhound.org/aboutigs/igfaqs.html This is a link to the IG FAQ section that's on the IGCA website. This section was written by Lillian Barber, who wrote "The New and Complete IG". This is Lillian Barber's website http://www.geocities.com/heartland/prairie/7051/
Patricia Kelly wrote the "Italian Greyhound Nuts N Bolts Book" and it comes highly recommended. You can get to the book from this link http://tigresq.tripod.com/id6.html which also provides links to other IG info. It's part of the Triangle IG Rescue site.
NATURAL NUTRITION
I have been researching alternatives to the “grocery store” kibble for years. I believed that there had to be a better alternative to all the chemicals, dyes, fillers and junk that made up some of the foods that are marketed to pets. After doing a tremendous amount of research over a decade, I have found what works for me. Over the years, there have been many changes and improvements with regard to what is available and I’m sure that, too will change over time.
I shop at Tailblazers, which is a holistic food store for pets. They may not have a location in your area but they do have links on their site to all the foods they sell, which will help you understand your options with regard to feeding a holistic diet. http://www.tailblazerspets.com/ There are many opinions about feeding "raw" and not everyone agrees with it. My advice is to research and decide for yourself what is best for both you and your pets.
Mary Marlow is an IG breeder and who raises her dogs on a natural diet. There's a TON of info on her site about Natural Feeding and Mary's always happy to answer your questions. Pick up a copy of "Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats" by Kymythy Schultz, it's one of the best books on raw feeding I've found thus far. I do not follow the info to the letter, it's not practical for my own situation to feed the way some do, but that does not negate the value of the information or the amount of help it was to me personally. http://www.onlynatural.info/feeding_pets_naturally.htm
Lepus Whippets and IG's - http://www.lepus.reach.net/ This is another breeder who feeds raw to her Sighthounds with success.
How do I know if a breeder is “RESPONSIBLE”?
There have been a great many stereotypes created about breeders. Many people approached me over the years wanting a purebred puppy, but were unwilling to pay "an outrageous price". BEWARE! Pet shops and Backyard breeders know little or NOTHING about bloodlines, faults, health issues, temperament and the importance of screening prospective owners. NOR DO THEY CARE! In their eyes, the bottom line is the all mighty dollar.
A reputable breeder takes the time to find the right owners and would rather give a puppy to a good home than accept an "outrageous sum" from a prospective puppy mill. A puppy that has been the recipient of good care, lots of love and proper socialization will be worth its weight in gold to a truly loving owner - the initial cost seeming trivial in comparison.
Responsible breeders spay/neuter puppies prior to placement whenever possible, which prevents more dogs from being disposed of at shelters, with rescue groups or abandoned. They do not place intact dogs with people and allow them to do as they wish. They follow up with the owners to ensure the puppy has been altered if they didn’t do so prior to placement.
Responsible breeders take the time to research the breed, research the pedigrees, do the appropriate health testing and recognize that the hard work to do what is right can be easily destroyed in just one generation – in one breeding - by a backyard breeder, kennel or puppy mill who just wants to breed for profit without any education about the breed, temperament, health issues or the like.
Responsible breeders support rescue. They understand the tremendous amount of dogs/puppies not only of their own breed but of every breed that are currently homeless and in need of help. Responsible breeders understand that in order to contribute to the breed, they must support the rescue and rehoming of that breed, regardless of the dog’s history or pedigree ( or lack thereof ).
Responsible breeders are educated about the breed they are working with. They take the time to educate prospective owners. They do home checks, reference checks and stay in contact with the owners once they take the puppy home. They offer a money-back guarantee against hereditary issues and also agree to take the puppy back at any point in its lifetime should the owner be unable/unwilling to keep the puppy. This rarely happens to a Responsible breeder because the prospective owner has been educated, screened and supported. The Responsible breeder took enough time to know if this home will be “in it for the long haul”. Even when it does not work out, the dog always has a home because the Responsible breeder is just that… RESPONSIBLE.
Responsible breeders will not sell more than one puppy to a home at once. They want each puppy to have the love, attention and care they deserve. They recognize that many first-time owners will have their hands full with one puppy and that even experienced owners may find it difficult to train and offer attention to two puppies at one time. Responsible breeders also know that when you place two puppies in one home, you run the risk of the puppies becoming bonded to each other and not to the people. If you get an IG and decide to get another, you shouldn’t have any trouble doing so but it’s best to wait at least a few months.
Responsible breeders understand the importance of allowing puppies to remain with their mother and siblings until 10-12 weeks of age. This is especially important for toy breeds due to their small size and the fact they do a lot of growing ( physically and mentally ) during the 10-12 week mark. Responsible breeders will not allow a puppy to go to its new home until they are physically, emotionally and mentally ready to do so. If it means keeping a puppy until the age of 16 weeks, taking that puppy to some socialization classes before placing them in a new home, then that is what they will do. The main reason over 75 percent of dogs turned-in to shelters and rescue groups is because of behavioral issues stemming from being taken from their mother too soon. Over 90 percent of dogs being turned-in to shelters and rescue groups originally come from backyard breeders and pet stores.
Responsible breeders research pedigrees and plan carefully for each litter. They screen homes, usually before the puppies are even born and sometimes before the bitch is even bred. This is to ensure that they have enough homes waiting for the puppies they produce and if they don’t have enough homes, they sometimes reconsider the breeding because a Responsible breeder cannot keep everything they produce. I know a breeder of Afghan Hounds who will not breed a litter without a solid commitment from at least 5 people because Afghans are harder to place and homes are hard to come by.
Responsible breeders can provide you with a 4 generation pedigree for each of their dogs, each of their dog’s parents and so on. Responsible breeders can also provide you with details on various dogs contained within that pedigree – their good points, their faults, their personalities. They have met many of the dogs related to those in the pedigrees, they have formed friendships with many of the Responsible breeders whose names are on those pedigrees.
Responsible breeders have a working knowledge of the breed. They’ve read anything and everything they can get their hands on. They’ve gone to shows, spoken to breeders, joined e-mail lists and groups. Responsible breeders foster dogs in need of Rescue, support fundraising efforts for Rescue, take part in Health Studies, keep up to date on the latest health testing available and do thousands of hours of research. Responsible breeders are knowledgeable and educated. Many Responsible breeders research several breeds before deciding on the one that is right for them.
Responsible breeders know that “the only valid reason for breeding is to improve the breed.” Responsible breeders grade their litters not only on conformation but on temperament, intellect, play-drive vs prey-drive and various characteristics sought after in the breed they are working with. Temperament testing, puppy aptitude testing and evaluation is part of the breeding process and done prior to making a final decision about which home would be best suited for each puppy. Responsible breeders look to their peers for feedback on their litters and the individual dogs they’re working with.
Responsible breeders spay/neuter dogs that are affected with health concerns so that they do not pass those issues on to future generations. They can make this sort of judgment because all dogs to be incorporated into the breeding program are tested for health issues BEFORE being used to produce more puppies. None of their bitches are bred before 2-3 years of age ( which is when they can test for certain health concerns ), dogs are not used before they have been cleared of health issues and many breeders go so far as to test their males to ensure they are capable of producing offspring so that if the bitch doesn’t take, they can determine why.
Responsible breeders take the time to educate the general public about their breed, whether they intend to buy a puppy or not. The motivation behind education is the betterment of the breed, not the lining of their pocketbook. Money is never a motivating factor to the Responsible breeder because no amount of money can compare to the love that they feel for the breed or for the individual dogs they choose to share their lives with.
Responsible breeders live FOR their dogs, not OFF their dogs!
What should I ask a breeder? What will they expect of me?
A responsible breeder will have a list of questions for you, which will determine not only if you are a suitable home for one of their puppies, but also if an IG is the breed for you. It can sometimes be intimidating but just answer as honestly as you can and don’t be afraid to ask some questions yourself.
Why did you choose IGs?
What do you like best about your dogs?
What sort of health testing do you do?
What do you feed your dogs?
Do you own the mother and the father? Is it possible for me to meet both of them?
What can you tell me about the dogs on the pedigree ( family tree )?
Do you have a website?
** not everyone has a website, just because they don’t doesn’t mean they’re not a Responsible Breeder **
Can I come visit your dogs?
Do you have a spay/neuter agreement or do you prefer to spay/neuter prior to placement ?
Do you have a sales contract?
Do you support Rescue?
Do you show your dogs?
Do both parents have their Championship?
Do you do any activities like Agility with your dogs?
What does “registered” mean?
“In compliance with the Canadian Animal Pedigree Act, the buyer of an animal represented as purebred is entitled to a registration certificate.”
What this means is that in order for the seller to advertise that the animal is Purebred, said animal must be registered. For dogs in
I can only speak for how to go about registration in
The CKC requires that all litters produced by dogs registered with their club also be registered. This consists of a litter registration and then individual registration for each of the puppies. With regard to cost, I know that some people claim they don't register the puppies because it costs ( X ). As of January, 2006 the cost to register a litter within 120 days ( 4 months ) of birth is 20 dollars for members, 40 dollars for non-members. This covers the entire litter, whether it be 1 puppy or 12 puppies. The cost to register each puppy is only 16 dollars. This covers the registered name of the puppy and an individual registration number which identifies the puppy. The tattoo and/or microchipping is also included in the price and is not optional as this form of identification is necessary in order to ensure that the registration number matches the tattoo number and/or microchip.
Registration is part of the purchase price. It is illegal to sell a puppy for one price "with papers" and another price "without papers". Either they are registered or they are not. If you have a litter of puppies and choose not to register them, that is your decision but you cannot advertise them as purebred. If the father is registered and the mother is not, the puppies are not eligible for registration. The CKC bylaws clearly state that this sort of activity is not tolerated and anyone caught breeding registered to non-registered or refusing to register a litter for whatever reason will be severely dealt with. This can include a lifetime suspension from the CKC.
As the buyer, your ownership would be outlined in the puppy's individual registration. The litter would be registered to the breeder but the individuals are registered to their owners. The breeder is legally obligated to provide you with the appropriate registration.
If the dog is a Rescue or registration is unavailable for any reason, the person who is placing/selling the dog CANNOT advertise it as purebred, as without registration they have no PROOF that the dog is, indeed purebred.
According to the CKC bylaws, members are forbidden to dispose of their puppies in a pet store. Dogs sold to or purchased from pet stores are not eligible for registration and thus pet stores cannot legally sell puppies as purebred. Reputable breeders do not sell their puppies via a pet store or broker, which is why you will not find purebred dogs in pet stores.
RESCUE
Due to the alarming number of IG’s waiting to be adopted, particularly in the
IGCA Rescue http://www.italiangreyhound.org/rescue/default.htm
Here you will find a ton of information as well as links to each of the sites for each of the states doing Rescue.
IGCC Rescue http://www.geocities.com/itgrcc/Rescue.html
Thankfully, we don’t have many IG’s in
IGSA http://www.igsafehouse.org/
Italian Greyhound Safehouse Alliance offers hope to IG’s from puppymills in the Midwestern United States. These are the IG’s you never see and rarely hear about because they spend their lives in wire cages at puppymills.
SOS Rescue http://www.newloranneigs.com/SOS_Auction/
With regard to the milldogs, it is very valiant to want to Foster or adopt one. Before deciding to do so, please visit the IGSA website and read ALL of the material provided. The milldogs are a very special group of IG’s who require rehabilitation both physically and emotionally. They have been through so much and are usually quite frightened and in terrible shape physically. It’s a heartbreaking situation that not everyone can handle them and that’s understandable. If you would like to help but cannot Foster or adopt, donations of supplies, toys, blankets, food and cash are always appreciated to cover the costs of veterinary care and day-to-day life.
Ring That
The number one reason that IG’s are turned over to Rescue is Housetraining Issues. IG’s are a quiet breed who sometimes don’t understand the point of going outside to potty. It’s easier and much less hassle for them to just do their business and carry on with their day. After all, they have a slave….er, I mean, Guardian to see to their needs. They will often sit by the door and wait for you to notice they’re asking to go out. If you do not respond, they have no choice but to potty in the house.
On a serious note, IG’s are notoriously difficult to housetrain but not impossible. I refuse to believe that any dog is incapable of being housetrained, unless they have a medical issue. One thing that has worked for me is “The Bell”. It’s very simple and very effective.
Get yourself a bell and a ribbon. Search out your holiday closet or head on down to the craft store. Choose a bell that is about the size of a small tennis ball. Easy to ring, loud enough for you to hear no matter where you are in the house. Tie the bell to the doorknob of whichever door leads to the potty area, allowing it to hang down within reach of the resident IG’s.
Take your IG to the bell. Ring the bell, take their foot and make them touch the bell, then take them outside. Lots of happy praise, this is a fun game. Take your IG outside every hour, on the hour. Before they go outside, make them touch the bell. Then reward them by lots of praise and a trip outside. Before too long, they will ring the bell on their own. If they do, drop whatever you’re doing and get your hiney to the door. Lots of praise and outside we go.
Dogs don’t understand commercials. If you’re watching tv, chances are they will always ask to go outside 10 minutes before the end of whatever program you are watching. If you do not respond, they will assume ( correctly ) that you are not coming and take matters into their own hands. They will potty in the house and it will be YOUR FAULT. They did what they were supposed to do. You did not. Bad Momma! Bad Daddy!
Please know that they may not potty every time you put them out but the more often they have the opportunity to go outside, the less likely they are to have an accident. The only time my dogs have accidents is when I don’t stick to the schedule and it’s been over 2 hours since they’ve been outside.
WOOBIE ROUNDUP !
Several years ago, I decided to crochet 40 blankets for Internet Miniature Pinscher Service in honor of my dog, Sailor - he was a Miniature Pinscher ( Min Pin ). Other people heard about my efforts and offered to help. I named this little project "Sailor's Blanket" and thus far, over 1000 blankets have been donated to Rescue Groups across
The blankets are given to the dogs when they arrive in the Foster Home and go with them when they are adopted. This provides the dogs with a sense of comfort and security while they adjust to their new life. This is especially important for the "milldogs" - dogs who are liberated from Puppymills and have never known a life that included blankets, toys and a soft bed.
For years, this project has been referred to as "Sailor's Blanket". Sailor was not a rescue, he was a showdog that I shared my life with. The project started out as one for Min Pins exclusively but has grown to include many breeds. I decided that I needed a name that would reflect the purpose of this effort and "Woobie Roundup" seemed appropriate.
So, I've officially elected myself SHERRIFF of Woobietown! I am in charge of roundin' up the Woobies and gettin' them to the dogs ( and cats ) who need 'em. YEE-HAW!
The Woobies can be new or gently used ( freshly washed, please - there's nothing better than a Woobie fresh out of the dryer ). They can be homemade or purchased. I crochet, others knit or sew. Some go on "Woobie Roundups" at their local charity shops, discount stores, department stores or their linen closet.
This is a Volunteer-based, non-profit effort. All of the shipping costs will be handled by those donating the Woobies. I do not accept money at all. You decide how many Woobies you would like to donate, who you would like to give them to and make arrangements to get them there. Visit my Woobie Roundup BLOG to learn more, find links to the Rescue Groups I am helping and see pics of Fosters with their Woobies. http://woobie-roundup.blogspot.com/
It's that easy! Now get out there and round up them WOOBIES! YEE HAW!
"It Works for Me"
A helpful hit learned from someone else and improved upon
from Faith Gordon
( taken from the
TRAY POWER !!
Take paper training one step further! They use flat crate trays in the spare room, which is designated the "dog room". With three adult females in the house and because they have no yard at all, they use two trays 28" x 38", and start out with a base of one day's newspaper on each one...
( you can buy newsprint roll ends from your local newspaper -- I don't use the actual newspaper because the ink gets all over the carpet, your clothes, your floors - makes a mess and stains everything ) anyhow, back to Tray Power....
then all you have to do when you get home is "pick with a tissue" and flush. Then spray the paper with neutralizer and add two more clean sheets on top. Have a smaller tray handy that you can take along when you travel. Use it in motels...motor homes...or wherever you're visiting if there's no grassy area to use.
They have even used it when visiting someone with a kennel. While the other dogs were jumping and running in the area they messed in, their girls kept clean and used the tray they put on the run floor. Since they have no yard at all, the girls never ask to "go" outside. They simply go their room and use the tray. The TRAY is what they recognize. They know it is the approved area and that 1/2' lip tends to keep them from playing all through the papers during the day. Even the babies seem to recognize this defined area. This has worked for the author for several years now. They shared it with a friend who has IGs. This friend has a female who requires privacy when she goes potty and would hide or just wait and go in her crate. Not any more, thanks to the TRAY! This was a bitch that drove her owner crazy -- messing in her crate every day for 2 years! A true testimony to TRAY POWER!
HEALTH INFORMATION
( Taken from the June '97 issue of the Pinscher Patter )
Report from the MPCA Health and Welfare Committee
( Back and Disc Problems )
by Larry and Penny Dewey
Some back injuries involve not much more than sore muscles. But, a spinal disk injury can cause extreme pain, loss of muscle control or severe nerve damage -- including paralysis. This problem can happen to any breed. For minor muscle stiffness and back pain, apply a hot pack or warm compress. Heat can boost circulation to the area and can be soothing. If you can, do this for 15 minutes, three times a day.
One way to check for damage is by checking your dogs' "placing response". While he's standing, flip one of his hind feet so the top of the paw is touching the ground. The dog should pick the foot up and put it right-side up in two seconds or less. If he doesn't, there could be an injury putting pressure on a spinal nerve. Call your Vet right away.
( I have my Vet's business card taped to the answering machine, so it's handy in case of an emergency )
Even if your pet passes this test and the pain persists for more than a day or two, call your Vet.
To prevent the dog from adding insult to injury, keep him quiet until the sore area has a chance to heal. Keeping him on crate rest and away from the other dogs for 3 to 4 weeks will give the inflammation a chance to heal and not cause further damage.
Always consult your Vet if injury appears serious or before medicating in any way.
What’s in a Name ?
For the purpose of showing and record keeping, both the Canadian and American Kennel Clubs classify the Italian Greyhound in the Toy Group.
The Toy Group consists of the following breeds : Affenpinscher, Brussells Griffon, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chihuahua ( long coat ), Chihuahua ( smooth coat ), Chinese Crested ( Hairless and Powder Puff ), English Toy Spaniel, Havanese, Italian Greyhound ( or IG ), Japanese Chin, Maltese, Manchester Terrier, Miniature Pinscher ( or Min Pin ), Papillon, Pekingese ( or Peke ), Pomeranian ( or Pom ), Poodle ( Toy Variety only ), Pug, Shih Tzu, Silky Terrier ( or Silky ), Toy Fox Terrier and Yorkshire Terrier ( or Yorkie ).
The names listed above are the ONLY names that are used to describe these breeds. Note the terms teacup, imperial, miniature, tiny-toy, tiny-teacup, pocket, apple-head, deer are NOT used to describe them and that these terms appear NOWHERE in the official breed standards for any of the breeds recognized by the CKC or AKC.
I have read a couple of different explanations about where the “teacup” and “pocket” monikers came from. The “pocket” reference is thought to have begun back in the 40’s by a popular band leader named Xavior Cougart. His trademark? A Tiny Chihuahua in the pocket of his tux jacket. What people didn't know is that it was always a puppy andwhen it got too big for the pocket he replaced it with another pup. What I want to know is what happened to the Chi’s when they became too big? Thanks to a member of the IG List for that tidbit.The “teacup” reference was thought to have started when a photo appeared in a newspaper ( I believe it was a publication based out of
All living things come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Human beings are an excellent example of this. There is a BREED STANDARD outlined by the parent club of each of the breeds listed here. Reputable Breeders make every attempt to adhere as closely to that standard as possible. The purpose of showing is to bring to the judge what we feel is a specimen of the breed that represents the standard. The judge will chose the dog or bitch that they feel most closely matches that standard among the dogs shown to them on that particular day. The breed standard can be interpreted differently by each breeder and also by each judge. This is why an IG who wins under one judge on one day, may not win under a different judge the next day.
In striving to adhere to the standard, most breeders hope to see consistency in the whelping box. They would, ideally, like to have a litter of puppies that are all within the standard. From time to time, puppies arrive that are either over or under the size outlined in the standard. They are NOT “Teacup IGs” or “King IGs”. They are Italian Greyhounds. PERIOD. Italian Greyhounds are not classed according to size. There are not multiple varieties of Italian Greyhounds. They are not Miniature Whippets. They are not Toy Greyhounds. They are Italian Greyhounds. There IS a name used by those who own IGs that are on the larger side – “Biggie Iggie” – but this is a nickname used in fun, not for profit and selling larger IGs to a newly-found market.
Some people will try to “label” the puppies in order to make them seem unique, rare or otherwise appealing. This is done to stroke their ego and line their pocketbook. Funny enough, I have seen “Teacup”
Reputable Breeders do not price their puppies according to size. They DO sometimes price their dogs as Pet Quality and Show Quality. The price they ask is their choice and not something that is “regulated” or “set” by any club. When asked about price, each will probably have their own reasons for asking that price. One has to consider health testing, pedigree, stud fees, medical expenses for the bitch, how much training/socialization is done prior to the puppies leaving the breeder. Price can also vary from litter to litter.
I used to breed Min Pins and this is how I determined price. I can only speak for myself and offer this only as an example to further illustrate.
When buying a Min Pin Puppy from me, the buyer was given a 4 generation pedigree on that puppy for their records. I also sold the puppies on a sales contract, which included a “take-back” clause. If, for any reason and at any time in that puppy’s life, they could no longer care for them, I would take the puppy back no questions asked. I also had a health guarantee which indicated that if they puppy developed a genetic health defect I would refund the purchase price up to the age of 7 years. All pet puppies were sold on a spay/neuter agreement, which meant that they would be altered by the age of 7 months.
All puppies were given an aptitude test, which measures a number of different things - Social Attraction, Following, Restraint, Social dominance, Elevation dominance, Retrieving, Touch sensitivity, Sound sensitivity, Chase instinct, Stability, Energy Level. This test helps evaluate the puppy and can also be a good way to decide what sort of home/activities/personality each puppy would be suited to.
All puppies were taken out on a regular basis to be socialized with many different situations and people. All puppies went home with 2 sets of vaccinations and a complete health record. Each was tattooed ( or microchipped or both ) prior to leaving my home. One puppy was not ready to be placed at the age of 12 weeks, so I kept him until after he graduated from Puppy Kindergarten. This puppy left my home at 16 weeks a well-adjusted, happy individual that was at ease in any situation.
Supplies – this will vary from breeder to breeder, but the MINIMUM that you should get is a week’s worth of whatever food the puppy is used to eating. I sent each puppy home with a leash/collar set, dish, toys, blanket, bag of food and a box of treats. They also left with a care sheet outlining how much they were eating and other info I felt was important.
Breed Standard
AKC - Approved
Description
The Italian Greyhound is very similar to the Greyhound, but much smaller and more slender in all proportions and of ideal elegance and grace.
Head
Narrow and long, tapering to nose, with a slight suggestion of stop. Skull Rather long, almost flat. Muzzle Long and fine. Nose Dark. It may be black or brown or in keeping with the color of the dog. A light or partly pigmented nose is a fault. Teeth Scissors bite. A badly undershot or overshot mouth is a fault. Eyes Dark, bright, intelligent, medium in size. Very light eyes are a fault. Ears Small, fine in texture; thrown back and folded except when alerted, then carried folded at right angles to the head. Erect or button ears severely penalized.
Neck
Long, slender and gracefully arched.
Body
Of medium length, short coupled; high at withers, back curved and drooping at hindquarters, the highest point of curve at start of loin, creating a definite tuck-up at flanks.
Shoulders
Long and sloping.
Chest
Deep and narrow.
Forelegs
Long, straight, set well under shoulder; strong pasterns, fine bone.
Hindquarters
Long, well-muscled thigh; hind legs parallel when viewed from behind, hocks well let down, well-bent stifle.
Feet
Harefoot with well-arched toes. Removal of dewclaws optional.
Tail
Slender and tapering to a curved end, long enough to reach the hock; set low, carried low. Ring tail a serious fault, gay tail a fault.
Coat
Skin fine and supple, hair short, glossy like satin and soft to the touch.
Color
Any color and markings are acceptable except that a dog with brindle markings and a dog with the tan markings normally found on black-and-tan dogs of other breeds must be disqualified.
Action
High stepping and free, front and hind legs to move forward in a straight line.
Size
Height at withers, ideally 13 inches to 15 inches.
Disqualifications
A dog with brindle markings. A dog with the tan markings normally found on black-and-tan dogs of other breeds.
CKC
Origin and Purpose
The Italian Greyhound is an ancient breed whose ancestors are believed to have originated in
Research indicates that the breed was originally used for the pursuit of small game, but as depicted in European art in the Renaissance period, its role seems to have been as much that of a small companion to the nobility. The breed was miniaturized in the 1800s and since that time has been too small for hunting purposes. Although it has retained some of the sporting characteristics, today it is kept as a toy companion.
General Appearance
The Italian Greyhound is similar in appearance to the Greyhound but very much smaller and more slender in all proportions. Its appearance is one of supreme elegance and grace. The body of the Italian Greyhound fits into a square.
Temperament
It is intelligent, agile and vivacious. It has a very affectionate and sensitive nature and is sometimes reserved with strangers.
Size
Height 13-15 inches (33-38 cm). Any deviation from these limits must be considered a serious fault.
Coat and Color
Coat - Very short, close, of fine texture, silky to the touch, glossy like satin. The skin is fine and supple.
Color - White, cream, fawn, blue, grey, black, red, chocolate, bronze, blue/fawn, red/fawn.
Any shade of these colors, solid or with white markings or white with colored markings is acceptable. A mask is permissible.
Head
Long and narrow. When viewed from the side, the planes of the skull and muzzle are parallel to each other and of approximately equal length with a slight, gently sloping stop.
The general appearance is one of a finely chiseled sculpture.
a) Skull
Long, narrow in width, top almost flat, sides slightly rounded.
b) Muzzle
Long and fine, tapering to the nose but with no suggestion of snippiness; topline flat. Portion beneath the eyes well chiseled.
c) Nose
Dark in color. The nose in profile is in the same line with the top of the muzzle and projects ahead of the muzzle. A lightly or partially pigmented nose is a serious fault.
d) Mouth
Jaws are strong with no suggestion of snippiness. Teeth are even, complete in number with a scissors bite. Lips are thin and close fitting, well pigmented and dark. An undershot or overshot mouth is a serious fault.
e) Eyes
Rather large, more round than oval shaped; bright and full of expression; dark, ranging in color from medium-brown to black, in keeping with the color of the coat. Self-colored eyes are acceptable in a blue dog, although dark eyes are always preferred for any color. Eyes should be neither protruding nor deep-set. Pigment of eye rims is dark. Light eyes are a fault. Partly pigmented eye rims are a serious fault.
f) Ears
Rose shaped, small and of fine texture with thin cartilage; set high and well back on skull. The inner base attachment of the ear should terminate perpendicular to the middle of the upper eye rim. In the relaxed position, the ears are carried folded back over the nape of the neck, revealing the auricle, with the skull between the ears appearing slightly rounded. When alerted, the lower half of the ear is raised upwards, and the upper half is folded and carried horizontally above the topline of the skull, giving a flat-skulled appearance between the ears. Erect or prick ears are a serious fault. Button ears are a serious fault.
Neck
Long, slender, gracefully arched. Its length from base of skull to the withers is approx-imately the same as the length of head. Its top line shows a distinct arch from the crest and joins the withers rather abruptly. The skin is close fitting with no throatiness.
Forequarters
a) Shoulders
The shoulder blade (scapula) is long, well angulated, well muscled but not overly prominent.
b) Withers
The region of the withers should be well muscled. The point of the withers should be distinct when the dog is viewed in profile but not overly prominent.
c) Upper arm
The scapula-humeral angle is obtuse; the direction of the angle is parallel to the central plane of the body.
d) Lower arm
Legs are set well under the shoulders, light boned, straight and vertical as seen from the front or in profile; elbows are turned neither in nor out. The height of the elbows from the ground is slightly more than the distance from elbows to withers.
e) Pasterns
Strong, slightly bent, fine bone.
Body
The length of the body, measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttocks, should not exceed the height of the withers. The body should be covered with firm, flat, well toned muscles. The tips of the hipbones and a shadow of the rib cage can be visible.
a) Topline
The topline is level, up to the start of the lumbar vertebrae (the 11th vertebra) where the arch of the loin begins in a gentle curve. The curve continues steeply down over the croup. There should be no abrupt break in the curve where it drops over the croup; rather it should be a smooth continuation of the curve, which starts over the loin. A wheel back, a roach back, or a flat topline from the start of the loin to the tailset are serious faults.
b) Chest
Deep and narrow; slight spring of rib. When viewed from the side, the ribs extend well back and the brisket should be at elbow level. When viewed from the front, the chest of a mature dog should be narrow but visible between the front legs. Wide in front, barrel-chested, slab-sided, or shallow in chest are faults.
c) Loin
Short coupled, strong.
d) Croup
Drops smoothly from the horizontal, giving a steep angle to the slope but blending harmoniously with the curve of the loin in a smooth arc, thus giving a low set to the tail and contributing to a curved silhouette.
e) Abdomen
Should show a very definite tuck up at the flanks.
Hindquarters
In a natural stance, the hindquarters should give the impression of a small running hound and should exhibit good muscle tone. When viewed from the rear, the legs should be straight and parallel.
a) Hipbone
The tip of the hipbone can be visible but the dog should not appear emaciated.
b) Upper Thigh
Long, lean, well muscled but not overdeveloped.
c) Lower Thigh
Approximately the same length as the upper thigh, fine-boned; the groove between the bone and the tendon above the hock very sloped with the tendon plainly visible, and the skin of the groove almost transparent.
d) Hocks
Well let down. When viewed from the rear, the hocks and pasterns should turn neither in nor out. When viewed from the side, the front line of the pastern should be on a vertical line from the point of buttocks to the ground. Cow hocks and sickle hocks are serious faults.
e) Stifle bend
Well bent, showing good angulation. The stifle joint should be plainly visible and there should be considerable angulation between the stifle joint and the pelvis, and between the stifle joint and the hock. The angle formed by the upper and lower thigh is approximately the same as, and balanced with, the angle formed by the shoulder blade and upper arm of the forequarters.
Feet
Hare feet, turning neither in nor out. The nails are preferably dark in color or in keeping with the color of the coat. They should not be cut to a short stub but should have sufficient length to give traction when running. Hind feet should be turned neither in nor out. The hind feet have toes more arched to give power to the propulsion exerted by the hind legs but with no suggestion of a cat foot. Cat feet and flat feet are serious faults.
Tail
Long, fine boned, covered with extremely short hair, set low, carried low, and tapering to the tip. The first half is straight and the second half is curved. In a natural stance, the tip of the tail should reach, or extend slightly beyond, the hock. A happy wagging tail is often carried out and slightly up and this should not be penalized. A ringtail, a tail carried up and over the topline, or the bottom half of tail straight as opposed to curved, are faults.
Gait
High stepping and free. The gait of the Italian Greyhound is its most distinctive feature. The foreleg is lifted almost parallel to the ground in a fluid forward-reaching movement with good flexion or bend of the wrist joint. There is a corresponding movement of the rear leg with good propulsion. Movement should be in a straight line with no crossing over in front or rear. Action should never be choppy but should portray an elegant smoothness. Above all, movement should be sound. A hackneyed gait with exaggerated lift, or a shuffling gait with insufficient lift, are serious faults.
Disqualifications
Tan points such as those of the Manchester Terrier. Brindle.
For your library……
Breed Magazine:
The Italian Greyhound
"Devoted to IGs Worldwide"
Editors and Publishers
Joan M. Cooper & William J. Cooper
8410 Kingsgate Road Dept WWW
Potomac, MD 20854, 301-299-6269
http://italiangreyhoundproductions.com
Subscription Rate: Periodical mail $30.00, First class $43.00 2 years periodical $58.00
Breed Books:
The Italian Greyhound. 21st Century
by: Lilian Barber (US Author)
(Noted I.G. Breeder, author and AKC judge)
Hardcover edition; contains over 250 photos
Available from Italian Greyhound Productions
8410 Kingsgate Road
Italian Greyhound : A Complete and Reliable Handbook
by Dean Keppler
Hardcover - 96 pages (August 1999)
TFH Publications
ISBN: 0793807891
Italian Greyhounds Today
by: Annette Oliver (British Author)
Howell Book House (can usually be ordered by any book/pet store)
ISBN 0-87605-191-3
A MUST HAVE !
Adopting the Racing Greyhound by Cynthia Branigan
http://www.amazon.com/Adopting-Racing-Greyhound-Cynthia-Branigan/dp/087605193X
The most comprehensive info I have ever found regarding Sighthound health and a must have for any Sighthound Owner, particularly those who wish to adopt.
Health Issues
The IGCA website has an excellent section regarding health issues, written by Dr Teri Dickenson, DVM. Topics covered in the article include dentistry, fractures, Idiopathic Epilepsy, Hypothyroidism, Color Dilute Alopecia, Retained Testicles, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Luxating Patellas, Legg-Perthe’s, Auto-Immune issues, Portal Systemic Shunts ( liver shunts ) and Inherited Deafness.
The Italian Greyhound Club of Canada also has a section on health issues with links to many sites that offer more information. Topics covered include : CERF ( eye diseases ) and OFA ( which screens for patella luxation and hip dysplasia ), which are tests for certain issues and the results of these tests are available for dogs whose owners have registered the results and obtained a CERF and/or OFA number. Other topics are PRA, Autoimmune Thydroyditis, Patella Luxation, Seizures and Fractures.
Visit as many sites as you can find. Talk to as many breeders and IG owners as you can. Make a list of questions for the breeders / rescue groups and things you want to know about them. Make a list of things you are looking for in an IG.
Not all breeders or rescue groups are created equally. Only through years of careful research did I come about the list that I've provided. This is not to say that there aren't awesome people out there that I just haven't met yet – I can guarantee that this is true. In the end, you have to decide for yourself. The only thing I ask is that you
Please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please
DO NOT GET YOUR IG FROM A PET STORE, BACKYARD BREEDER OR PUPPYMILL !
You will not be “saving” them by paying an outrageous amount of money for an IG who comes from a place such as these. They all deserve the very best homes, the very best food, the very best vet care, the very best of everything. Unfortunately you’ll only be providing the source with more funds to continue exploiting the breed. You’ll only be providing a market for a breed that does not fare well in pet stores, kennel situations and who deserves more than to be treated like livestock or merchandise. You’ll only be contributing to a problem that I’m trying so desperately to help solve, along with so many other people who love the breed.
Backyard Breeder? Puppymill? What do these terms mean?
My personal experience has led me to the following definitions.
Backyard Breeder :
Backyard Breeder’s usually concentrate on one breed. They normally have pets who they feel they’d like to produce puppies from. Dogs they got from someone who didn’t ensure that their puppies were spayed/neutered so that this situation wouldn’t happen. They don’t attend shows; don’t have titles on their dogs. They’ve done little or no research on the breed, don’t have any knowledge of health testing, don’t research pedigrees ( don’t have any pedigrees to refer to ), don’t screen homes, don’t sell puppies on a contract and don’t comprehend that what they are doing is not in the best interests of the breed.
Backyard Breeders do not have a working knowledge of the breed standard and will often ponder aloud why the IG’s at shows, on TV, in books and magazines and websites look “so different” from their own. They don’t participate in obedience, flyball, agility, lure coursing or any of the other “non-conformation” activities with their dogs.
Many of them aren’t trying to make a profit, they just don’t understand that what they are doing isn’t a positive contribution to a breed they profess to love. Some will only breed one litter, find out how much work it is and then vow never to do it again. Others will get a couple of females and a male, produce a litter or two a year and sell the puppies to make a little extra money and so that they can claim to be a “breeder” to their friends, relatives and co-workers because to them it’s a status symbol, not a commitment or a responsibility.
They do not see the importance of a spay/neuter agreement because if they did, they wouldn’t be breeding their own dogs in the first place. They do not sell their puppies on any sort of contract because they feel that the buyer should be able to “do what they want”.
Backyard Breeders do not support Rescue, nor do they have any comprehension that they are contributing to the problem because they are ignorant of the existence of the problem, either by choice or circumstance. They are completely oblivious to the fact that the number of IG’s in need of Rescue/rehabilitation/rehoming has reached epidemic proportions. They will not offer any sort of “take back” clause because they don’t understand that there are already an overwhelming number if IG’s in need of homes and they also don’t comprehend that IG’s are not the breed for everyone.
Puppymills :
Puppymills breed strictly for profit. They usually keep more than one breed on hand, care very little ( if at all ) for the history, health issues, temperament, breed standard because these things don’t matter to them. What they are concerned with is how many puppies one bitch can produce and how many bitches one dog can impregnate. Profit is the motive for a Puppymill operator.
They care about keeping their costs low. This means finding out how soon they can legally sell the puppies so that they no longer have to care for them. Keeping puppies until the right home can be found is unheard of. Keeping them until they’re 12 weeks old? Absurd! Why do all that extra work if you can just rip them away from their mother’s nipple as soon as you’re legally allowed to, pile them into a crate and then ship them off to a pet store, broker, or auction?
They don’t employ enough people to care for the number of dogs they own. If they had 500 dogs and employed one person to care for 10 dogs, they’d need 50 people on a full time basis which would ( again ) lower their overall profits.
They don’t take the dogs to the vet for regular checkups and many basic health issues go untended. Vet care costs money and lowers their profits. Most puppymill rescues have horrid teeth ( some to the point of losing part of their jawbone – do you know how long a dog’s teeth have to go unattended before their jawbone starts falling apart? ), broken tails, missing and/or broken toes, cysts and growths that have remained untreated along with infections, internal damage to their reproductive organs from being overbred and a long list of other issues directly related to no health testing, inadequate nutrition, lack of vet care and sub-standard living conditions.
They feed very low grade food because it’s cheap ( doesn’t cut into their profit ). Canine nutrition is a subject I’m pretty passionate about, so forgive me if I sound harsh. If you “cannot afford” premium food, you have too many dogs. It’s not rocket science or a judgment call, it’s a FACT!
Did you notice that the issue of profit came up again and again? Do you notice a trend forming here?
Puppymills house the dogs in what most consider to be less than suitable environments.
Having said that, some reputable breeders are in situations where one or more of the dogs don’t get along and thus cannot be out together. They have to bring the dogs out in “shifts”. One group of dogs is out for a certain amount of time, then another group. This by no means makes them a puppymill or a bad person. It’s happened to me in the past, leading me to place the one dog that seemed to be the cause of the issue. I personally don’t feel that this sort of situation is best for me or my dogs and isn’t something I’m prepared to accept as part of my life. That’s why I placed the dog who was having the issues and causing me to have to start doing shifts. It was in his best interest to live somewhere else. Somewhere that he could be the center of attention and not have to be segregated from others in the household, which seemed to only make the situation worse.
However, with regard to numbers - if a person is housing so many dogs that they cannot possibly let them all out at once because they can’t control the situation, this is not in the best interest of the dogs. If it takes literally hours to care for their basic needs each day ( feeding, letting them have a romp in the yard ) this is not in their best interest. If they are spending more time with each other than with you, this is not the best situation for them. If you are afraid of what your neighbors would think, you have too many dogs. If you are embarrassed about the number of dogs you have, you have too many. It should be noted that some people will announce with pride that they have 30, 40, 50, 500 dogs and not have any problem with that. Just because they’ve justified it in their own mind doesn’t make it right.
IG’s are very bonded to people. They like to go everywhere with you. They want to be WITH you, do stuff with you, be involved in what you are doing. They will follow you to the bathroom, come sniff your eyeballs, offer to clean your ears, bring you toys, want to be cuddled on the furniture with you. IG’s enjoy being spoken to and sung to, kissed and hugged, played with. Does this sound like a breed that would enjoy having to compete with dozens of other dogs for your attention? Does this sound like a breed that would enjoy living in a cage among hundreds of other dogs, only seeing you for as long as it takes for you to fill their dish? Does this sound like a breed that would thrive outdoors in all sorts of weather?
If you are one person and work full time, that means you are home for about 15 hours a day. If you sleep for 8 of those hours, you have 7 hours a day to spend with the dogs. If you have a large number of dogs, they aren’t going to get as much individual attention. It is then that you have to ask yourself what is in the best interests of the dogs. No one can answer this question for you. At one point, due to circumstances beyond my control, I had 7 Min Pins living with me. I learned ( the hard way ) that this was beyond my limit. Thankfully, this was a temporary situation but I am happy for the lesson. I decided that three dogs of my own, with room for one or two Fosters would be my ideal. Again, that’s my personal comfort zone and everyone is different.
When we mention the word “puppymill”, the image we associate is normally a large kennel with stacks of cages and hundreds of dogs. This is true, but not the only form that puppymills take.
My interpretation of the term covers anyone who knowingly sets out to breed for profit. I’ve heard of breeders who attend shows, doing and saying “all the right things” who turn around and have a “cash litter”. They own both the male and female so there’s no cost to the breeding and they just put them together, have a litter and sell the puppies to make some extra money. The difference between this mentality and that of a BYB is that the breeder of a “cash litter” is usually someone who is involved in the breed and should know better but just don’t care because their need for money outweighs their commitment to the breed as a whole. They can’t see beyond their pocketbook long enough to understand the damage they are doing and the negative contribution their greed is responsible for. Even if this is pointed out to them by a well-meaning bystander, they will take offence and insist that there’s nothing wrong with their practices.
Breeders who specialize in one breed, go to shows, seem educated yet “always have puppies available” are also puppymills in my book. How can you possibly produce that many puppies in that many colors/varieties and yet maintain the best interests of the breed? How can you possibly justify producing that many puppies on a regular basis when there are so many waiting to be adopted through Rescue?
Breeders who allow the buyer to choose the puppy, or worse - aren’t even home when you come to pick up your puppy - are puppymills. They don’t even care enough about the puppies to see them off to their new home. They raised the puppies and should be the ones to tell you which of them is best suited to you. Personality, temperament, energy level are three things to consider when matching a puppy to a potential home. Otherwise you’re just “filling an order”, which is not responsible nor in the best interests of your breed.
Breeders who sell adult dogs “because they need the cash” are puppymills. There are many cases of breeders who have to place some or all of their dogs due to circumstances beyond their control. That is a completely different scenario than what I am talking about.
Breeders who are deceptive about health testing or who dodge your questions about health testing or won’t provide you with details about what testing they’ve done or try to brush you off about this topic are puppymills. Reputable breeders are not going to go into depth about their health testing with people they’ve just met but they will be honest about their health testing once a relationship with a potential home is established.
When you pull up to a large building in a remote location and are greeted by the sound of hundreds of barking dogs, the stench of years of urine and feces, rows upon rows of cages containing sad little faces, it’s easy to stamp the “puppymill” label on it. What is difficult is that there are many puppymills that operate under the guise of a responsible breeder.
I’m certain you’ve been told at least once to be sure the source of your new IG is not a Backyard Breeder ( BYB ) or a Puppymill. The problem is, how do you know if the person you’re dealing with is reputable or not? If you visit a website…..
Do they “always” have puppies available? Do they accept Visa, AMEX or MasterCard? Do they mention “free shipping” or that they will “ship anywhere”?
Allow me to quote “The Lion King”. ‘Run away. Far away. And never return.’
Reputable, responsible breeders DO NOT always have puppies available. They carefully plan each litter and usually screen homes in advance so that they have a waiting list of approved people ready. This is not to say that a reputable breeder won’t breed two litters within a short period of time. For many reasons such as a bitch’s age or the availability of a certain stud dog, breeders will sometimes plan two litters within a short timeframe. But they also plan to screen plenty of homes, they to all the appropriate health testing and research, they also plan to have the time to properly raise, train and socialize these puppies. I personally would not undertake such a task and know of a few breeders who have done it once and won’t do it again. If you raise puppies right, you won’t want to do it often, it’s a TON of work, responsibility, dedication and did I mention work?
Responsible Breeders DO NOT accept credit cards!! This is not a business to them, the puppies are NOT merchandise. People who accept credit card payments for their puppies are in it for the MONEY, not for the love of the breed.
Responsible Breeders DO NOT offer blanket statements regarding shipping puppies to potential homes. Now, this is not to say that reputable breeders will not ship. Face it, the chances that you are going to be within driving distance to the breeder you wish to acquire a puppy from is slim. I don’t recommend getting your IG from whomever is closest. Take the time to find a Responsible Breeder and then concern yourself with the details regarding how you’re going to get your new IG home. Not all breeders are willing to ship, either. Be prepared for that, as well.
Ideally, the breeder would love to come to your home and meet with you. They would love to have you come to their home for a visit. This isn’t always possible. Reputable breeders will sometimes ship puppies to the right home, but only AFTER getting to know you, checking your references and possibly having someone they trust come to do a homecheck. Just as you want to ensure that they are honest, reputable and responsible – they want to know the same is true of YOU.
If you send them an e-mail, talk to them on the phone or in person…..
What do they want to know about you? What sort of relationship do they have with the dogs? What sort of requirements do they have of you as a home?
BYB’s and Puppymills are not concerned with the welfare of the breed, but are looking to line their pocketbooks. They don’t normally have an extensive knowledge of the breed(s) they are involved with, so they don’t offer you any info such as this handbook or refer you to the IGCA site to help educate you about the breed and ensure that this is indeed the breed for you. They often don’t show their dogs because that costs money and the key to their happiness is to make as much profit as possible. They don’t really care to keep in contact with the people that they place their puppies with because once the dog leaves their home/kennel, they are moving on to the next litter.
If they have a puppy that you can come pick up tomorrow, they’re a BYB or a Puppymill. Responsible Breeders will NOT have something available to you in that sort of timeframe. They will want to get to know you before making any sort of arrangements for you to meet the dogs and long before you get to take one of their IG’s home.
Reputable Breeders want to know about YOU. Where do you live? How many hours a day are you away from the house? How many people live in your home? Do you have any other pets? Have you ever owned an IG before? They want to know as much about you as possible so that they can ensure an IG is going to fit your personality, lifestyle and activity level. With this information, they can also determine which of the IG’s they have available is going to best suit you or what you are looking for in an IG. They care about how the IG is going to spend their days. They want to ensure that each IG they place is going to the best home possible.
Reputable Breeders will often ask you to fill out a “questionnaire” – usually available on their website. Or they will send you a list of questions and ask you to respond. This is part of their screening process. BYB and Puppymills don’t have any sort of screening process because they don’t fully understand or care about the importance of carefully matching each IG in their care with the right home for that individual dog. Some DO have a bit of info on their website or an “application” but 99.9 percent of the time, it’s stolen from a reputable source and used as a smoke-screen. Take a look at the rest of the site. Is there a difference between the wording? That’s usually a dead giveaway that the owner of the site didn’t write the “good” info but stole it from someone else to make themselves look better to the public.
As long as you have a pulse and a checkbook, you’re assured a puppy from a BYB or a Puppymill. If they screened homes as carefully as all breeders should, there is no way possible they could find homes for the numbers of dogs they produce, nor stand behind the dogs they place.
CONTRACTS !
BYB’s and Puppymills do NOT place their IG’s with contracts. Why? Because they don’t want to be held accountable ( or in some cases, FOUND ) if something goes wrong. They don’t do any of the proper health testing, so they can’t possibly offer any sort of guarantee. Most don’t register their dogs, so they can’t even sell the puppy as Purebred. ( please see the section “What does “registered” mean?” ).
Reputable Breeders require a sales contract. It protects the buyer, the seller and MOST IMPORTANTLY….the IG. The contract will outline, in detail, the requirements of both parties with regard to the welfare of the IG being sold.
Reputable Breeders will offer some form of health guarantee against hereditary defects.
They acknowledge the fact that these issues can arise, even when you do everything “by
the book”. When I was breeding Min Pins, this guarantee was up to the age of 7 years
and offered a full refund of the purchase price, should this occur. This was a personal
decision and other breeders will have their own way of doing things for their own
reasons. Discuss this with the breeder, find out their reasons behind the guarantee they
offer and if you are not satisfied with it, do more research and educate yourself in order to
learn what you feel is satisfactory and fair to all parties concerned.
Reputable Breeders will offer a “take back clause”. They will take
the IG back at any
time in that dog’s life, no questions asked and ensure they have a safe haven should they
need one.
Reputable Breeders REQUIRE that the IG be returned to them IMMEDIATELY AND DIRECTLY. They will not allow any of the dogs they place to be surrendered to Rescue, turned in to a shelter, dumped at a vet’s office, left with a friend or turned loose on the street. BYB’s and Puppymills don’t care what happens to the dogs once they leave their residence or facility. That is what separates them from Responsible, reputable breeders.
Remember, you are entering into a contract with the breeder / rescue group. Ensure that the contract is up to your standards, based on your research. If you are unhappy or uncomfortable with any aspect of the contract, discuss it with the breeder. Do not enter into a sales agreement or adoption with anyone until you are certain that things are in order. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and require detailed explanations. That is your right as the buyer / adopter of the IG.
